The requirements of the Motor Sports Association (MSA) (cars) and the Auto Cycle Union (ACU) (bikes and trikes) differ. I would recommend that even if you have a 1940 or older 3 wheeler, you start your motorsport with the ACU as it will cost you less. However you do have a machine that can compete with either. The Morgan Three Wheeler Club annual sprint can usually be done with a one day ACU licence - applied for at the venue.
To compete with any car - you will need to be a member of a motor club. It is not essential that you are a member of the MTWC or the MSCC but both are recognised for this purpose in the UK and both organise events from time to time anyway.
To compete with four wheels you will need:
Crash Helmet to BS6658-85 Type A
Note this a minimum specification - others better types exist, and are valid
for higher level of motorsport. There is a recent European standard which is
NOT acceptable.
Overalls, Proban or Nomex.
Three wheelers
The ACU have slightly more relaxed views on crash hats, you do not need the
overalls, and a stout leather jacket and gloves will do for protection (motor
bike ones are preferred but others offering a similar degree of protection should
be adequate).
The Car
Read the regulations, anything I say is offered as a help - and does not replace them!
It goes without saying that the car should be properly maintained with no nearly worn out parts. With a four wheeler if you need new tyres, apply for a licence first as the list of 1A tyres could be useful. Some four wheel motor clubs have the misguided idea that adherence to a list of "production" tyres keeps cost down (and you should buy new if yours are unlisted - factory fit tyres less that two years old have been unlisted in the past!). Really this is untrue since if you really have money to burn, certain production tyres have softer rubber lower down the tread. This and the fact that tread "squirms" means that buffing down to 3mm of tread does improve grip. Until you've made them illegal (less than a season with no road use). Although you must read the regulations for each event carefully, do take note of this - it may influence your choice of events. However the MSCC and many other clubs do have an enlightened view of things, so even if your tyres are not in the list, that should not preclude you from many events. Note some quite ordinary tyres are not listed, as the manufacturer has to seek approval, new types they may have not yet done so, and bargain basement manufactures don't bother seeking approval.
Fuel lines in many four wheeler Morgans do not meet the regulations from new! I've never seen the rules enforced, but there must be a first time. All internal fuel lines should be either metal or of metal braided type. Whilst I've never checked, I imagine that fuel injection cars are satisfactory (who would pressurise plastic!). Microbore central heating pipe is ideal for this purpose, and easy to bend. £20 should buy enough for at least two cars.
Carburettor return springs. The must be a visible means of closing the butterfly should the cable break. Cars with DCOE Webbers will have to add a spring (there is one - but it internal - so you cannot see if it is broken or not). Halfords do quite a range of assorted springs and you should find something suitable.
Bulkhead: Should be metal, and continuous between engine and passenger area. No unfilled holes. Older three wheelers are exempt this bit - also the bit about a bonnet!
Numbers: Although you can in theory place and remove stickers without damaging paintwork, owners of steel bodies can make removable roundels out of the magnetic sign material. Others have made clamp on roundels that fix to the side screen holders. Some colour cars can use white or black liquid shoe polish - but beware, not all is waterproof. The stuff that waterproof can be a pain to remove and unless you keep the polish for the car only, scratches on the paint can result from grit on the applicator. Test somewhere out of sight!
Timing Strut: Needed for car events, one of the most forgotten items. Specification in the MSA blue book (sometimes called the bible)..
Engine stop control: Should be clearly labelled and work! I've seen ones that don't! A clear label on the dashboard indicating the ignition key location and the direction of rotation for off is sufficient. If you are tempted to fit an isolator (nice red switch usually) do fit the type that stops the engine. Single contact types do not usually stop the engine (three wheeled or four) and might not do any electronics any good though!.
Noise: should not be a problem with a standard car (might be different tale with a tweaked engine, and side exhausts). However, do note I've been as loud as 113dBA with Woodstock, and the Elk is potentially still the same. The limit for four wheelers is now 108dBA. Noise inspectors if approached in advance are usually very helpful. Do note that older cars are exempt unless the owner of the venue has stipulated a limit (or a lower limit). Prescot, Castle Combe and Goodwood do this, the former being achievable with a bit of common sense but Goodwood in particular can be problem to anything but a standard modern car.
Catch tanks? Should not be needed with a standard car since re-circulated crankcase breathing has been used for years. If this applies to you however, a capacity of 2 litres for cars of under 2 litre capacity and 3 litres above that is the race limit, and I would recommend this. Hillclimb and sprint level is a lower 1 litre but if you blow a hole in a piston, I don't think it is big enough! This may well be a bit over the top for a F type, and twins that need a catch tank (total loss ones) do not need one anything like the size (at normal rate of oiling, it would take 125 miles at least to fill a pint can).
First Event?
Ah, but since to upgrade a MSA licence you need to collect signatures, a day at a recognised hill climb or sprint school counts as two events you may wish to consider this. Do it before your first event! (Suggest this as a birthday/Christmas present!).
At the event - walk the course! (some sprints substitute a convoy run for this - read those regs!) Take note of moisture traps and other track conditions.
Final car preparation. Remove all loose items - tools etc. Power to weight is
what it all about, so apart from the safety angle, leave nothing! The main fitted
removable weight is the spare wheel of course and that is a lot. Petrol is also
heavy and while you don't want the embarrassment of running out, a full tank
weights a lot. Many competitors carry a can of fuel to the event.
Windscreen removal, not always an option especially if you don't have aero screens
(event regs can differ on this). Unless the hill is fast, you are unlikely to
get much real help from this, other that the lessening of weight. Some it may
even be psychological. That being said, I prefer using aeros.
Type Pressures. If the event is dry and warm you may want to increase them.
Cuts tyre "roll" and increases precision. The listed pressure for
many Morgans are really too low anyway for road use! Take advice from other
competitors with similar cars and tyres - but take care. You can see the effects
on a tyre on one run up a hill if you know what to look for and adjust accordingly.
Club motorsport at this level is a friendly game. Folk help each other, lend tools etc. If in trouble, ask. If a competitor does not know, he has usually a good idea who does. On more than one occasion I've mended a car which has subsequently gone on to beat me (but we're still friends!).
At an average event you get two practice runs and two competition runs. As a novice - do not listen to tales of powerslides and holding 5000 through whatsit hairpin! There is always a certain level of bull in these tales and even when serious advice is offered it assumes that you have the skill to do it (and your car is the equal too).
The only piece of advice I was given of a general nature is so good I'll repeat
it in bold:
To get a time - You must stay on the black stuff
Blindingly obvious, but stay cool with no red mist!
Take the first practice run carefully. If you could have gone faster - note where. You should not ever be at the "I've gone too fast" stage at this point. If you were - do you normally drive like that? The second run with the benefits of experience and observation should be faster - although it may not feel faster. Check your times. It probably was faster.
Smoother is faster. Indeed, and less effort. Jackie Stewart once lapped Brands hatch in a standard 3 litre Capri, drifting round every bend, with one finger on the wheel - to show just this point to the television cameras.
You first proper timed run should build on what you learnt, you should be faster, but note these two runs are all that count. With one in "bag" you at least figure in the final results, even if you blow it on the second.
You may want to read my fun guide to Prescott, written originally for Mog 2001.
Above all, enjoy yourself,