The Elk is a 1930 Super Sports Aero, arguably (I would) one of the fastest three wheelers produced by Morgan. Although later cars had as much power, they were heavier, higher, and had a narrower front track (as did all the others).
This means that it can give a fright to modern machinery expecting an old three wheeler to go slow all time. Admittedly one has to make an appointment with the brakes, but given a clear way ahead it has overtaken a BMW on a roundabout.
In common with other Morgan three wheelers, if you are understeering as a result of going into a corner too fast, you open the throttle to recover! In fact you use the steering wheel to initiate a turn, but do most of the later work with the throttle. You will note the use of the word throttle - all early cars only had a thumb operated throttle, although a foot pedal was offered as an option by the later days. Some cars have been converted to a foot pedal, but my opinion is that you need three levers on the steering wheel to give the fingers something to do (throttle, air/choke and advance/retard - no soppy automatic ignition timing!).
It is called "The Elk" as it's mission is to frighten German motor cars into falling over. (The Owner has nothing against them, but as the Elk was nine when war was declared, and rather resents being denied sweets etc during the war, the Owner can do little to dissuade it. It also took being beaten by all the pre war BMWs at the Prescot Classic in 1998 rather personally).
The state of play, at the end of August 2000.
Body on chassis, oil tank, pedals (all two of them) and steering column fitted
3rd March 2001
Slow progress, due to cold weather (ahhh!). However, the cowl and skirt are now on, the dashboard is in place, and drilled for all instruments and switches. Steering column has been modified with the fitment of a Clarrie Combes taper (it has a proper woodruff key to locate the steering wheel. I've reassembled the back brake and and it works, but a new cable is needed, which I can hopefully collect tonight. Later note, I did, isn't the MWTC wonderful - only cost £8.50.
Two photos taken today, showing this result of this afternoons work. I cut a hole in the skirt, beat and bend guides from the hole edges in the skirt, and fabricated a sliding panel to fill the hole. This is in order to be able to withdraw the rear wheel spindle (and I can!).
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June 2001
Things are now more advanced, however there was a period of excitement, best
labelled as "Mummy, my steering is upside down!".
I will explain in more detail. The steering arms were upside down, thus the
weight of the track rod was hanging on the ends. Due to the design of the track
rod ends, this is, to say the least silly. Of course when I rectified this,
the track rod did not fit!
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The upper pic shows the track rod one way up
And the other way up |
Both are silly as the upper is hitting the chassis before any weight is on the wheels and the lower is fouling the torque tube. I've now altered the track rod - which was not easy (teach me to use the old bits as a pattern for a supplier!).
I'm now working on the brakes as it is probably a good idea to be able to stop! I've made new flanges for my backplates, quite the hardest bit of panel beating I've done. However the difficulty caused us to have a bit of falling out, so Mog 2001 kindly appeared, and I went in Woodstock - who promptly ate two cam followers. So an engine rebuild for him is also now going on (Aug/Sept 2001).
November 2001 I've rebuilt the engine for Woodstock, but difficulties with the clutch (I would want to fit a racing clutch!) and the hoist means the engine has not been fitted and run.
Back to the Elk, I've now fitted one brake backplate flange properly, have nearly done the second and am making new spacers for the stub axles. However I need daylight and good weather for this as judging the right size is going to be difficult. Problem is that the position of the backplate is crucial, it should be held by the center, and only kiss the stub axle. There is a stop to prevent it turning on the stub axle, but any pressure will distort the backplate. The old stub axle pins are in use to save space in the workshop (you can see in pics). Steering will be adjusted and then I'll remove the track rod pro tem. A SS Aero is wider than the 4/4 (in terms of track).